Building a home maintenance calendar you will still be using in October

Most maintenance schedules fail for the same reason: they are too long, too detailed, and attached to nothing that already happens.

Article details
AuthorJunko Halloran
SectionHouse & Home
Published
Length1,132 words · 5 min
A single printed checklist taped inside an open utility closet door beside a stack of pleated air filters
Fig. 1 — A single printed checklist taped inside an open utility closet door beside a stack of pleated air filters

Maintenance schedules are easy to write and hard to keep, and the failure is almost always structural rather than a matter of discipline. A list of forty tasks spread across twelve months is a list nobody looks at after February, because looking at it requires remembering that it exists.

What follows is a method for building one that survives, based on three principles: keep it short, anchor each item to something that already happens, and separate the tasks that matter from the tasks that are merely tidy.

Step one: sort every candidate task into three tiers

Write down everything you think should be done to your house in a year. Then sort it.

Tier one: prevents damage or danger. Things where skipping them leads to water inside the building, a fire risk, or a failed system. Smoke and carbon monoxide alarms. Gutters and drainage. Dryer vent. Water heater. Sump pump. Heating and cooling filters. Shutoff valves.

Tier two: extends the life of something expensive. Sealing a deck, servicing equipment, cleaning coils, caulking, touching up exterior paint before it fails.

Tier three: everything else. Cosmetic, comfort, and nice to have.

Then discard tier three from the calendar entirely. It will happen when it happens. Including it is the single most common reason these lists collapse, because a calendar with unimportant items on it teaches you to ignore the calendar.

Step two: anchor each item to something already in your year

A task attached to a date you have to remember will not get done. A task attached to something that already happens will.

Useful anchors: the clock change in spring and fall, which is the traditional anchor for smoke alarm batteries and works because it is unmissable. The first cold night, which is when the heating gets turned on anyway. The first hot day. The week you file your taxes. A birthday. The week the leaves finish falling. The day you put the yard furniture out and the day you put it away.

Write the calendar as anchors rather than as months. "When the clocks change: test alarms, replace furnace filter, reverse ceiling fans" is a line people actually execute. "March: test alarms" is not.

Step three: batch by location, not by system

Most schedules are organized by system, which is logical and produces a year of small trips to the basement. Organize instead by where you have to be standing.

Everything requiring a ladder outside happens on one day. Everything in the basement or the utility room happens on one morning. Everything requiring you to be under a sink happens together. Batching this way turns twelve separate small tasks into three sessions, and three sessions actually get scheduled.

Step four: write the whole thing on one page

One page, four sections corresponding to four anchor points in the year, six or seven items in each. Print it and put it inside a utility room cabinet door or on the back of a closet door, not in a file on a computer.

Next to each item, write where the thing is and what it takes. "Furnace filter, 16 by 25 by 1, spares on the shelf above the washer." That detail is the difference between doing a task and adding it to a mental list of things to look up later.

Add a column for the date last done and write in it with a pen. The record is what turns the page from a plan into a log, and it answers the question you will actually have in eighteen months, which is when this was last done.

Step five: decide in advance what you are hiring out

The tasks that get skipped are usually the ones where you have not decided who is doing them. Mark each item on the page as yours or theirs.

Reasonable to hire out for most households: anything above single story height, chimney inspection and sweeping, heating and cooling maintenance, dryer vent cleaning on a long run, and anything involving gas.

Reasonable to do yourself: filters, alarm tests, gutter clearing at single story height with a stable ladder and someone present, shutoff valve exercise, water heater flush, and visual inspections of everything.

For the hired items, book them on a recurring basis rather than deciding each year. A standing autumn appointment for heating maintenance happens; an intention to call someone in October does not. Alarms are the item on this list most often placed by guesswork. How many a house needs, where they belong, and how long a unit lasts before it is replaced are all settled questions, and the answers published by the Consumer Product Safety Commission are worth reading once while you are building the calendar rather than after one starts chirping at two in the morning.

The items worth adding that nobody puts on a list

Three tasks appear on almost no schedule and cause a disproportionate share of expensive problems.

Exercising shutoff valves. The main water shutoff and the individual fixture stops seize if never turned, which means the one time you need them, in an emergency, they do not move. Turn each one fully closed and fully open once a year. It takes ten minutes for a whole house and it is the difference between a small leak and a flooded floor.

Testing the sump pump, if you have one, by pouring a bucket of water into the pit rather than by lifting the float. A pump that has not run all summer is exactly the pump that fails during the first heavy autumn rain, and a backup power source for it is worth considering in areas where storms take the power out.

Looking at the water heater. Not flushing it, just looking: at the base for rust or moisture, at the temperature and pressure relief valve, and at the age on the label. Water heaters give warning before they fail and almost nobody is watching for it.

What a workable list looks like

Around twenty-four items total, in four batches of six, each anchored to something unmissable, each marked with who does it and what it needs. That is a page. It takes an hour to write and about six hours a year to execute.

Two habits keep it alive. Do a two minute walk around the outside of the house once a month looking for anything obviously changed, which catches most problems long before they are on any schedule. And when something does go wrong, add the preventive version of it to the page afterward, so the list grows out of experience rather than out of a template.

A list built this way tends to survive, because every element of it was designed around the way the year actually runs rather than the way a maintenance schedule looks on paper.

About the author

Junko covers what work costs and why two quotes for the same job differ.